Our man recently in Brazil talks about his experiences and the World Cup legacy for the South American Host nation

Behind the modern stadia, sold out crowds and Mexican waves there is far more to Brazilian football. Like its society, it is a sport of great contrasts. Attendances fluctuate wildly, the traditional colour and dancing have an underlying warning of violence and many of Brazil’s stars have played their way out of the favelas. Surprisingly too, much of their domestic football is built around holding midfielders rather than the marauding forwards of old.

I was fortunate to visit Brazil four years ago. I went to my first fixture dressed down and admittedly worried - stories of trouble not quite doing enough to scare me off. Botafogo fans, however, met this quiet Englishman with open arms. “Hey, relax, dance, you at the football!” They drew 3-3 with 18 year old Neymar’s Santos amid a backdrop of flares, flags and hypnotic chanting.

My visit to the Maracana the next day was less exciting. 11,000 turned up to see purported giants Flamenco and Sao Paulo. This is where our view of Brazilian football falls down. With ticket prices being expensive for those outside the middle classes, many pick and choose fixtures. There was no carnival atmosphere while the two teams played out a languid 1-1.

Although not a frequent concern, hooligan incidents do deter some individuals. At any fixture you will see riot police. On entering a stadium your belt is checked for guns and inside you can only buy non-alcoholic beer. This though, can be related to the country’s social problems. Like here in past decades, football can unfortunately be seen as an outlet for frustrations.

It’s little wonder then that the hosts have seen such protests. With health care, school and transport problems, why should billions be spent elsewhere and then FIFA depart with all the profits? Lost beneath match headlines, this week has seen further protests with police reportedly firing live rounds at demonstrators. For these people, the World Cup isn’t making dreams come true but potentially ruining lives.

That’s not to say we shouldn’t be enjoying the likes of Messi, Pirlo and Reza. Brazil is still a proud country and with this is able to show off its scenery, beaches, vibrancy and what are truly some of the world’s most friendly people. Unfortunately all too few had heard of Charlton…

It’s worth remembering however, that for each yellow shirt in a stadium there will be a great many outside living in poverty. This should not be a reason to not enjoy the showcases on the pitch, but another mark against FIFA’s ever worsening reputation.

The BBC quotes only one stadium from South Africa 2010 as now being financially viable, with campaigners insisting that its most expensive ground in Cape Town should be demolished. The tournament was a success for sponsors but “left local businesses and the state floundering.” Where then, is FIFA’s supposed football family? Presumably in 5-star hotels in Rio, sipping on champagne.

From here we can only hope that the same isn’t being said in four years. As well as being the planet’s greatest footballing nation, Brazil is one of the world’s gems and, like South Africa, it deserves better. Whether a nature lover, night owl or sport fan the country offers something and, if you get the opportunity, I highly recommend you go. In the meantime, enjoy the football but keep an eye afterwards on the ‘legacy’ that is left, and have a think the next time someone complains about England never hosting a World Cup.
RedPanda